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Thread: Landing practise with a CH750 STOL

  1. #1
    User Taiser's Avatar
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    Landing practise with a CH750 STOL

    I should have parked the "BB" by now, but the weather has been unreal! My grass is starting to turn green and it's mid November! Some snow coming on Friday, but sunny and 10 on the week-end, so I'm getting more practice in. I haven't tried to land with full flaps until now, 2 seconds (half) flaps have been all I've been using so far but was time to get a bit more fancy. Full flaps startled me the first time. The nose dropped quite a bit and I had to use a lot of back pressure on the stick to keep the nose up, but still had lots of elevator authority. I was able to come in around 55 mph with no issues. Seems to be the "sweet" spot... I had no issues around 50 mph but it seemed a bit mushy on the controls and they weren't as crisp as I would like but control was still easy. Pulled the throttle down to around 1500 RPM (usually come in at 1900) and the decent was impressively steep!

    I can see with more practice I will be able to chop the throttle to idle and literally helicopter this thing down, but that takes more guts than I'm willing to use... for now... one step at a time!

    Got about an 1.5 hours in doing circuit work that day, perfect for STOL practice because there was zero wind. Usually circuits are pretty boring in a regular bird, but not in this plane! I was kinda bummed at how slow this thing is at first, especially after the Cruzer came out which wasn't available when I bought my kit, but nothing else I've flown is anywhere near this kind of STOL performance and once I get really proficient at it I can only imagine how much more fun it will be! On one landing, I was able to put full flaps and got the landing roll down to about 150 feet!!! Impressive for my plane, since it's one of the heaviest ones out there. I'm also thinking of popping off the slats next year and trying it with VG's on it instead. I've heard it might actually perform better AND gain about 10 mph while shedding 14 lbs of weight! Bit of a pain in my build though because I'd lose the Wig-Wags in the slats, which everyone says make my plane VERY visible in the air... but I could move those I guess, or get another set that could be installed in the wings so I could flip back and forth.

    Here's a edited video I made, showing the take-offs and landings only.

    Cheers,

    Mark




  2. #2
    Administrator ZenithOwner.com's Avatar
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    I'm going to do something similar to your door handles. Are you glad you went with the dual stick option?
    Mark Pensenstadler
    Site Admin
    Price's Airpark, Linden, MI (9G2)
    S-10 | S-6S | RV-7 | Cherokee 160 | Zenith Cruzer

  3. #3
    User Taiser's Avatar
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    I am and I'm not...

    I went with them just because I've never flown with a "Y" stick and I wanted to put my throttle in the center panel area which the Y won't work with. Now that their in I'm OK with them, but in retrospect (and now having sat in a 750 with the center stick) I think I could have been happy with the center stick but it still felt "weird".

    The duals are a lot of work to install, take away leg room, make it a pain to get in and out of the cockpit and probably add a couple of pounds to boot. That, plus there is a lot of "tubes" that can easily have something fall into and jam something up, but some guys have made some leather boots to cover them and they look pretty good. They also caused me some issues when it came to adjusting the flaperons because I had to grind the lower box of the sticks to get the deflection I needed. One other issue is that they will interfere with the install of a hydraulic pump that runs the amphibs... it usually goes on the passenger side area, but I built removable panels in the baggage areas to install the pump now, so that will work. You can use a manual pump too but not sure where that goes, I've never seen one installed.

    The designs seems like an afterthought by Zen, just to satisfy the guys like me that wanted duals but after saying all that I do like them. This plane took a bit of transition training for me to get the hang of and my buddy who "transitioned" me had never flown one either so a center stick would have really stymied us LOL. I'd love to try a Y stick now though, just to see the difference.

    Dunno if this made any sense... LOL

  4. #4
    I'm installing the dual controls this week on the Cruzer...any "gotchas" I need to be aware of?

  5. #5
    User Taiser's Avatar
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    A few... not sure if the mod has changed since I installed it but I found the triangle gusset a bit flimsy once installed. Problem was the bottom seat channel is a bit too thin and flexes a lot. It was never designed I guess for a control stick to be attached to it. I braced both sides of the triangle with some a piece of "L" that run from the floor to the top of the channel and added a piece to the back of the channel as well. It still flexes a hair but nowhere near as much as it did. Had I known, before I would have riveted the seat plate I would have added a large doubler behind the front seat channel to beef it up a lot more.

    Also, it's required in Canada here to use a large washer on the tie rod ends but it's not required in all other countries. This is in case the rod bearing end fails, all the guts won't fall out and cause a loss of control. When I was putting the controls together temporarily there was a lot of "slop" in the sticks, but when I added the washers I was able to snug them up a lot more than without them and most of the slop was gone without over stressing the bearing.

    I'm looking for some photos that could help, but sorting through 5000+ of my build photos might take a while. I found one that might help...



    Think you can see the "L"s in this one on each side... I'll keep looking for better shots of the sticks...

    Also pay special attention to the center tube area. If you have anything going through there (I have fuel lines) it will get tight on the control tube, and make sure you double check the clearance of the attach arm, mine was rubbing on the floor. The front attach torque fitting also shouldn't be too tight. If you snug it too much, it will distort the tube in the front bearing and make it really stiff. Took me a while to figure out what was causing it too be too tight!


    Here's another shot...




    You can see the "cap" like thing in the middle, don't torque it down too much. Also you can see the "boxes" the sticks sit in. I had to grind a bit off the top and bottoms of both sides so the stick would travel enough to get the flaperons to have proper deflections. Not hard but a pain and Zen should have made a better mod to prevent this.
    Last edited by Taiser; 11-13-2015 at 10:29 AM.

  6. #6
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    Very nice video. Thanks for the ride!!!

  7. #7
    Thanks Mark...I took your advice and put in a doubler made with 0.063. The rest is to plans which includes the L on each side of the triangle gusset.Seems pretty rigid now. I'm not sure exactly what you mean with the big washer but I really like the rationale! Do you have a pic?

    IMG_20151114_183219510.jpg


    IMG_20151114_183229519.jpg

    I'm gonna be finishing the interior and attempting to make it warm and quiet That's some of the speaker carpet I'm putting down before I put the seat bases in.

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